Sake To You

Originally a fermented rice mash eaten like cereal, sake has been Japan's national beverage for the last 1,200 years.



As it has trickled down from the aristocracy to the people, it has gained refinement, complexity, and variety. Here is a scouting report on five of Izakaya's selection of 50 fine sakes (click here to read a detailed review of Izakaya-the hot new restaurant at the Borgata).



"Sake is such an important part of eating in Japan I tried to incorporate it into all aspects of the dining experience at Izakaya," says chef/owner Michael Schulson. Sake charts a course from cocktails to appetizers (the truffled broth for edamame dumplings), dinner (the soak for deep-fried edible fluke skeleton), and dessert (the zip in strawberry shortcake).



What grapes are to wine, rice is to sake. There are dozens of varieties of sakamai, or sake rice. Ginnosei, the rice used to brew Ama no To's Heaven's Door, is a hybrid developed to withstand the fierce winters of Akita, the prefecture on the northwest coast of Japan where this sake is made.



Compared to table rice, sakamai has larger grains with a bigger shinpaku (white heart), the starch packet in the center. Milling polishes away the exterior proteins, oils, and minerals that would create off-flavors if brewed. Anywhere from 30 to 60 percent or more of the outer surface is polished away. Generally, the higher the degree of polishing, the more complex, fragrant, and expensive the resulting sake.



In ancient Japan, rice was polished by chewing (and, yes, spitting out), which also introduced the enzyme that changes the starch to sugar. Today, breweries use computer-controlled machines. The brewing process (called multiple parallel fermentation) involves yeast as well as the enzyme, and is more complex than that of beer. Most sakes (including the five below) are filtered and pasteurized. Whether to drink sake warm or chilled "is completely up to a customer's taste," says Izakaya manager Craig Slotkin. "There is no right or wrong temperature."



Schulson's commitment seems to be paying off. "Sake actually outsells wine and beer at Izakaya," he says.



NAME: Living Jewel

BREWERY: Tozai

LOCATION: Kyoto (S Central)

GRADE: Junmai (pure rice, no alc. added)

COLOR: Pale Hay

BODY: Medium

FLAVOR: Red delicious apple; hints of tangy fruit

NOSE: Subtle, earthy, wet oak leave

ALCOHOL: 14.9%

SERVING SIZE/PRICE: 8 oz. carafe, $12; 22 oz. carafe, $32

GREAT WITH...: Sushi, especially oily fish salmon

COMMENTS: "Earthy yet subtle."



*******



NAME: Dreamy Clouds

BREWERY: Rihaku

LOCATION: Shimane (SW coast)

GRADE: Tokubetsu (reserved) junmai

COLOR: Milky White

BODY: Full, round, milky

FLAVOR: Ripe melon, tropical fruit, low acidity

NOSE: Wet slate, mountain stream

ALCOHOL: 15.5%

SERVING SIZE/PRICE: 8 oz. carafe, $10; 22 oz. carafe $27

GREAT WITH...: Spicy or highly acidic foods

COMMENTS: "High quality at an entry-level price."



*******



NAME: Yuri Masamune

BREWERY: Yuki No Bosha

LOCATION: Akita (NW coast)

GRADE: Daiginjo (finest brewing art)

COLOR: Semi-clear

BODY: Crisp, clean, lean

FLAVOR: Starfruit, kumquat, minerals

NOSE: High minerality

ALCOHOL: 17%

SERVING SIZE/PRICE: 8 oz. carafe, $11; 22 oz. carafe, $30

GREAT WITH...: All sushi

COMMENTS: "The most poignant on your palate of our carafe sakes."



*******



NAME: HoHo Shu

BREWERY: Marumoto

LOCATION: Okayama (SE coast)

GRADE: Sparkling junmai

COLOR: Bubbly, faintly milky

BODY: Rich, smooth, frothy

FLAVOR: Honeysuckle; notes of peach

NOSE: Fragrant fruit; cherry blossom

ALCOHOL: 6%

SERVING SIZE/PRICE: 300 ml. bottle, $27

GREAT WITH...: Spicy small dishes, grilled vegatables

COMMENTS: "A novel new entry on the market."



*******



NAME: Heaven's Door

BREWERY: Ama No To

LOCATION: Akita (NW coast)

GRADE: Tokubetsu junmai

COLOR: Clear, slight shine

BODY: Medium to full

FLAVOR: Refreshing, hints of cucumber, squash

NOSE: Parsley, cilantro, tarragon, chervil

ALCOHOL: 16.2%

SERVING SIZE/PRICE: 8 oz. carafe, $22; 22 oz. carafe, $59

GREAT WITH...: Heartier dishes like the seafood stew

COMMENTS: "Herbaceous, sophistocated; from a great producer."



Note: All comments by Randall Mrazik, Izakaya Gen. Mgr.

Click here to read the rest of Sake To You. If you enjoyed this article, you also might like our other stories that talk about NJ Restaurants.